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There have been several products that have taken the sport-fishing industry by storm over the past few years, producing a seemingly mad rush to get them. The rapid acceptance of omni sonar for marking and tracking fish 360 degrees around the boat, and the upgrade to Starlink for satellite communication, are just a couple of items that have kept boatyards and electronics installers very busy.
However, despite being a relatively “old” technology compared with those mentioned in the paragraph above, gyrostabilization has become almost a standard feature on most new sport-fishers and center-consoles, and has also seen tremendous growth with retrofit capabilities on most boats 26 feet and up. Those with a proclivity for a bit of mal de mer have had a great impact on the widespread acceptance of this technology. And make no mistake, it has also lengthened the time for many elderly anglers, children and wives, as well as boaters with disabilities, to be out and mixing it up on the offshore grounds. There are also many folks who fish several days in a row, and they all credit the gyro with keeping them from being totally worn out. Long story short, the gyro isn’t going anywhere.
For those building boats, if you don’t directly install the gyro or build in the infrastructure to install it later, you are missing the boat completely. Few manufacturers are missing that opportunity today. Retrofit specialists have learned how to adapt the units into boats that initially didn’t have space for them. Oftentimes it requires significant rearrangement of systems such as plumbing and electrical infrastructure. Simply rub it with enough money; they will figure it out.
Finding the Right One
With strong end-user acceptance and successful product integration into the OEM boatbuilding process, it didn’t take long for several companies to enter the fray and begin introducing their own gyrostabilizer product lines into the recreational marine market—offering DC-powered models for smaller boats and AC-powered units for larger vessels with independent powerplants.
Seakeeper has certainly done a great job of making gyrostabilization a common piece of gear in the marketplace. The company offers a full line of 12 different units designed for boats ranging from 23 to 110 feet, supported by an expansive dealer network of installers ready to get you stabilized.
VEEM Marine, well known for its propellers, has introduced the Mark II range of gyrostabilizers for vessels from 65 to 300 feet. These units come with a five-year, 3,000-hour warranty. VEEM’s website features a Gyro Calculator to help you instantly determine the appropriate size for your needs. One particularly interesting feature is the ability to remotely monitor the unit on board, where possible. This allows users to analyze performance in real time, track alerts and warnings, and offer service recommendations for extended maintenance intervals or end-of-life rebuilds.
SmartGyro, a division of Yanmar, also offers a strong line of gyros, for vessels from 45 to 95 feet. They emphasize their global service network and provide three-year, 2,000-hour warranty coverage.
Anti Rolling Gyro, a division of Japanese manufacturer Tohmei Industries Ltd., offers units for vessels under 10 tons with 12 V or AC power, as well as models for boats up to 80 feet. Its dealer coverage spans the United States, Europe, the Middle East, Asia, Australia and New Zealand.
Industry behemoth Dometic has entered the market with its DG3 gyro, designed for vessels from 35 to 41 feet. Featuring 12 V, 24 V and 48 V compatibility, the DG3 boasts no hydraulics and claims up to 40 percent reduced power consumption. With a trusted installer highly recommended, Dometic units are available through its dealer network, and additional sizes are likely to follow in the near future.
Retrofits
When looking to install a unit, several things must be considered. It is highly unlikely in a boat over 35 feet that you will be able to use one unit, due to the other equipment installed on the boat during the build. In most retrofits on larger boats, it is an easier battle to install two or three smaller units that equal the intended results of the single unit to stabilize the boat. In a perfect world the units would be mounted on the centerline of the boat. Rarely is that possible in a refit without really compromising several other things that have already been installed. It is perfectly fine to place the units in the lazarette or outboard of the engine room and expect positive results; however, be sure the units have enough clearance for servicing and maintenance.
The most critical consideration in sorting out a refit is making sure the infrastructure the gyro is mounted to is robust enough to hold the unit when it is spinning at full speed. The units come with an integral cradle frame with four mounting points and are easily attached to the framework infrastructure that must be built in the boat.
The boat infrastructure for the gyro mount should be integrated into the existing boat’s major structures, such as the stringers and bulkheads, so it is strong enough to withstand the incredible stresses that the spinning unit transfers to the boat when it is correcting and fighting the seas to keep the boat as level as possible. For instance, a Seakeeper 9, designed for boats from 50 to 59 feet up to 30 tons, can produce loads of up to 3,842 pounds on each of the four mounting points of its cradle. I have personally seen an engine room where the boat’s infrastructure was not up to the task, and the resulting damage was luckily only ripped timber and fiberglass.
Maintenance
Much like the sound shields on generators, gyrostabilizers have removable covers for servicing and maintaining the units. If the units are in a salty environment, it is highly recommended to give them a good rinse, especially the bearings and other movable parts, taking care not to get the electrical components and connections wet. Just like rinsing your reels at the end of the day, do not use a forceful spray. Use a mist or just a free flow of water so you do not force salt or other particulates deeper into the unit. A good soapy wash is also recommended when necessary, using a soft-bristled paintbrush to get into the corners and crevices. Be sure to dry the unit with a chamois and use air to blow the water out of the places the chamois cannot reach. A protective spray lubricant never hurts to keep screws and other items from tarnishing and locking up. Perfect performance is never guaranteed, but good maintenance always helps.
