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How many times have you set out a spread with natural baits swimming perfectly, only to have a fish zero in on a teaser and not switch over to your natural pitch bait? It’s a frustrating situation and no doubt one that most who spend time offshore can relate to. Over the years I’ve added a few refinements to the standard natural pitch-bait options, including the use of artificial lures, to help switch over those finicky fish.
Let’s start with ballyhoo. Although used by captains and crews the world over, there are still slight nuances to keep in mind when using ballyhoo as a pitch bait. In calm conditions, a standard skipping ballyhoo can work like a charm. But as conditions deteriorate and become rougher, adding a lead to the rig creates a swimming action and prevents longer skips out of the water in choppier conditions, keeping the bait in the fish’s view longer. Another popular option, and a personal favorite, is the addition of a Mold Craft Lil Chugger in front of the ballyhoo. Especially when pulling a soft-head teaser behind a squid chain, the chugger “matches the hatch” of what was just pulled out of your fish’s mouth and produces results that are hard to argue.
Mackerel, mullet, flying fish and small tuna are also popular pitch-bait options, especially when pitching to bigger fish on heavier gear. Rigging for these bigger baits is oftentimes more elaborate than with ballyhoo. Standard rigging principles, such as breaking backs and proper storage, still apply to get the bait to swim correctly when used as skipping or swimming baits. With any pitch bait, the goal is to keep them as natural and as fluid as possible. The addition of a chugger-style head to your mackerels and mullets is always a nice touch and also provides great hook placement in front of the bait. When fishing areas that are rich with tuna, I’ve found that removing the backbone of your tuna bait is a great way to ensure better presentation. Although time-consuming, it could make the difference when coming tight on the pitch.
While I have tinkered with my natural pitch baits as mentioned, those are only variations of tried-and-true pitch-bait methods. Nearly every captain I’ve met applies their own customizations to these standards. But perhaps the most uncommon of the pitch-bait options is the artificial pitch bait. I’m the first to state that I’ll take a natural pitch bait over an artificial on almost any occasion. That said, I have had success with pitching artificials when my ballyhoo and mackerel were denied. And despite our best efforts to always have fresh bait at the ready, banner days, unexpected freezer issues, or fishing in remote destinations can throw a wrench into those plans. Regardless of the situation, I’ve learned that it always pays to have an artificial pitch bait in your repertoire.
The Lil Chugger Needlefish from Mold Craft is one lure I have used with great success over the past 30-plus years, especially when fishing lighter, stand-up tackle. The lure has a longer profile and is set up with a tandem hook rig. I prefer 7/0 J hooks connected by No. 12 Malin hardwire in a stiff-rig configuration, meaning both hooks are stuck in their rigged position and can be adjusted only by turning wire to achieve the preferred offset. When used as a pitch bait, you deploy the lure in similar fashion as a natural pitch bait, controlling the position and action of the lure with the rod. Once in position and with the drag set at strike, you drop the rod tip after the strike, pointing it directly at the fish and then setting the hook in the opposite direction that the fish took the lure. Dropping your rod tip allows the fish to take the lure before you set the hook with the rod, which is the opposite of what we do when circle-hook ballyhoo fishing. It takes a little practice on timing, but I have found this to be a very effective method. Plus, this method does not necessarily result in a gut-hooked fish like you would think since you are giving the fish only a split second to take the bait before setting the hook. The best part about these artificial lures? You can usually release several fish before having to re-rig!
As we move up into the 50- and 80-pound class stand-up gear, I like to increase the size of my lure pitch bait. Any of your favorite lures will work—the most important thing is for your pitch bait lure to “match the hatch” of your teaser colors. I prefer a standard Super Chugger with a long underskirt of at least 12 inches, once again enabling the hook to be presented as far back as possible. I fish this with a single 11/0 hook stiff rig on 400-pound cable. Provided you are fishing stand-up gear and a wind-on leader, the same technique mentioned will apply here when pitching. When pitching with heavy tackle in the 80- and 130-pound class, you really just scale up your lure size and terminal gear from what was described. There are, however, some changes to the way you deploy your pitch bait.
Due to the cumbersome nature of handling heavy tackle gear and bent butts, I prefer to keep things simple and let my boat and gear work for me. I keep the pitch rod in the corner slot, with the leader coiled and the lure out of harm’s way. When the fish shows, you will throw the lure and leader over in an organized and calm manner, preferably to the outside of the prop wash. The guys who are really good at this wrap their coils a certain way so they almost never foul upon deployment, but that’s for another time.
For me, as long as double line and leader are clear of the rod tip, I’m fishing. My leaders are always 30 feet or under, per IGFA rules, and my teasers are generally at 50 feet. I want the move from deployment to fishing to be a clean and easy maneuver, with minimal adjustment required. Once deployed to the desired length, the drag should already be set where the captain and crew have decided.
Read Next: How to Use Live Pitch Bait for Marlin.
There are varying opinions about a light-drag strike versus a heavy-drag strike, but that I think is a matter of preference. I’ve had success using both methods. From there, let the rod and lure do their jobs, and adjust the position of the lure as needed with the reel. Upon the strike, there is no drop-back or hook set. The drag will do the work. You just enjoy the show from the front-seat position!
Whether you’re looking for a better understanding of pitching natural baits or would like to add some artificial pitch bait options to your repertoire, I hope these bits of personal experience will help you pick up that next shy bite.