Cairns, the Great Barrier Reef, Lizard Island — names that make this area of northeastern Australia legendary among anglers seeking some of the world's largest marlin. No place in the world offers fishermen a better shot at a 1,000-pounder than Cairns, gateway to the blue Pacific off the Great Barrier Reef. Nor does any other spot provide a remarkably productive light-tackle fishery for baby black marlin.
The Odds: Hard to beat overall, though chances for monster marlin vary considerably season to season. In a typical year, at least a grander or two will be hooked every week, on average, among the fleet of roughly 30 boats. In his best season, Capt. Peter B. Wright hooked an average of one grander every four days. On the other hand, in some years he has gone weeks without releasing one. Both 2001 and 2002 offered particularly consistent action from big marlin. Most grander fishing here means trolling large dead baits close to the edge of the outer barrier reef. However, more skippers in recent years also troll big lures wide of the reef.
Species and Size: Although a few blues do turn up, expect to see all blacks on most days. An overall average size during the "heavy-tackle season" would be 450 to 500 pounds.
Release: Virtually all marlin caught here are released.
Distance to Fish: From Cairns (or Cooktown), you're looking at a 30-mile run to start trolling. That's why so many anglers stay on motherships or large sport-fishers out at the barrier reef: Crews can put lines in almost as soon as boats leave the reef.
Length of Prime Season (for granders): Three and one-half months: mid-September through November (may run a little earlier or later, but this is the safest bet). Odds of a grander from January through August are slim. Last year, for example, big fish started showing in real numbers around the end of September and continued for several weeks, with the largest of the granders taken weighing 1,245.
Conditions: Seas may range from flat calm to "frightening," as Wright says. But he adds that conditions seldom get too rough to keep boats from fishing. The early part of prime season tends to be rougher; winds often moderate in November and December. However, rough winds seem to up the odds for big marlin, especially southeast trades of 18 to 25 knots, Wright points out.
Charter Availability/Quality: About 30 charters, most top-notch — though still with varying levels of experience and knowledge — fish these waters. About eight motherships operate on the reef; that's fewer than in years past because so many sport-fishers are now set up to live aboard for extended trips.
Charter Cost (in U.S. dollars): For a day trip out of Cairns, expect to pay about $1,000 to $1,350; for a live-aboard, about $1,500 to $1,800 per day. Smaller motherships — in the 60-foot range — start at about $1,800; larger, more luxurious boats (in the 100-foot range) will run as much as $4,000 to $6,000 per day. (All prices are per boat.)
Accommodations: No shortage of hotels in Cairns, with a range of prices. You can find basic rooms for $30 per night or pay five to 10 times that rate for the Hilton or similar digs. Lots of good eateries around town.
Other Fishing Opportunities: World's fastest fishing for little black marlin, right along the reef, primarily in July and August, just before the big mamas come to town. You can find some good sailfishing mixed in. The vast reef also provides great light-tackle opportunities for trevally, grouper ("coral trout") and more — try jigging or casting big poppers.
Cost to Get Here (from Los Angeles): Including flight from Sydney to Cairns, figure at least $1,200.
General Information: www.cairnsinfo.com; www.cairns.aust.com; www.cairnsconnect.com.
