Brazil. The mere mention of South America's largest nation conjures images as vast and varied as the country itself, from indigenous tribes concealed by impenetrable rain forests to spectacular beaches, beautiful babes and raucous Carnival celebrations.
Big-game fishermen who keep an ear to the ground also hear occasional rumblings emanating from this side of the equator: Vitória holds numerous world records, while Cabo Frio seems to ring in each new year with another grander, and the Royal Charlotte Bank consistently serves up tussles with fat boys in blue suits. Stretching 5,000 miles, much of it bathed by tropical currents, Brazil's coastline would seem to offer a lifetime's worth of billfishing to a fanatic who started at one end and worked his way to the other. In reality, blue-water anglers would best spend their time concentrating on the 800-nautical-mile length of the country's midsection between the cities of Salvador and Rio de Janeiro.
Despite its relative proximity to Venezuela, you can forget about finding reliable, accessible billfishing off Brazil's northern tier. The Amazon River's invincible presence invades King Neptune's realm and converts hundreds of square miles of ocean into brackish chocolate milk. Even where the mighty river's influence wanes, the lack of marina facilities in Brazil's extreme northeast section makes the mooring and maintenance of sport-fishers a complicated undertaking. About 200 miles off the coast of Pernambuco state, the archipelago of Fernando de Noronha receives plenty of ecotourists, surfers and divers. The islands host strong runs of sailfish in July and August ? friends of mine have caught and released sailfish while trolling from local wooden trawlers they'd hired for the day ? but difficult access precludes the establishment of any upscale charter operations.
You can also scratch out the chunk of southern Brazil from the state of São Paulo down to Uruguay, where commercial fleets log significant catches of swordfish in the chilly waters more than 100 miles off the coast. While members of São Paulo's Ilhabela Yacht Club hold tournaments and catch their share of sails, whites and blues (including the state-record 930-pounder), the fishing does not merit international attention.
So where can visiting anglers tie into Brazilian billfish? As a 10-year resident of this enchanting country, I recommend six destinations that should please most globe-trotting fishermen.
Salvador
Located in the state of Bahia in Brazil's northeast, Salvador served as the young nation's first capital. Now boasting a population of 2.5 million, the city embraces fast-paced progress while maintaining centuries-old traditions. Here you can visit historic churches perched on narrow cobblestone streets, tour waterfront auction houses where slave ships unloaded human cargo, then dine at a trendy restaurant before hitting a few nightclubs.
Four years ago a private enterprise invested millions in the construction of Bahia Marina, which now features the most modern marina facilities in Brazil. More than 500 craft, from sport-fishers to schooners, occupy slips with impressive views of downtown Salvador.
Anglers here enjoy the shortest run in the country to reach productive fishing grounds. The continental shelf swings in as close as 8 miles off Salvador, and crews rarely stray more than 30 miles from port. During the December-through-January peak season, boats typically raise one or two blues per day, with fish ranging from 90 to 400 pounds.
You'll find no bona fide charter boats along the docks of Bahia Marina. However, the Marazzul tackle shop puts clients in touch with private owners who make their boats available for occasional rentals. While the sales representative may speak English, you'll most likely end up fishing with a Portuguese-speaking captain and crew. These crews know their home waters well but rely on straightforward tactics by trolling lures or dead baits. Don't expect to find several outfits rigged and ready with pitch baits because these guys don't practice bait-and-switch.
American travelers realize little benefit from Salvador's international airport since no direct flights link Miami to this city; passengers must fly to São Paulo or Rio de Janeiro, hundreds of miles to the south, then backtrack to Salvador on a connecting flight.
Canavieiras
Outstanding chances for hooking braggin'-sized Brazilian blues await anglers in Canavieiras, a small town of 30,000 about 170 miles south of Salvador. Better yet, Americans can book trips to this marlin mecca with a simple phone call to Artmarina in Miami. After the 15-hour trip from Miami (via Rio or São Paulo to Salvador, commuter flight to Ilheus, ground transfer to Canavieiras), weary travelers may have doubts at first sight of the sleepy, slow-moving village. But just as with its operation in Guatemala, Artmarina delivers first-class service and red-hot billfishing.
Clients stay at a private, four-bedroom guesthouse with maid, laundry service and made-to-order breakfasts. Artmarina's fleet (30-foot Coyote, 34-foot Coyote II and 40-foot Coyote III) constitutes a three-boat wolf pack that puts anglers in the adrenaline-fueled epicenter of Brazil's most consistent blue marlin action. The Royal Charlotte Bank forms a submerged cliff face extending 50 miles into the Atlantic, bearing the brunt of southward-flowing currents to create upwellings and rips that attract baitfish, tuna, dolphin, wahoo, whales and billfish. English-speaking skippers direct crews well versed in trolling plastics as well as pitch-baiting with bonito strips and live tuna on 50-, 80- and 130-pound tackle.
Concentrating on a sweet spot along the bank about 35 miles from Canavieiras, Captains Jeff Anderson and Shawn Wallace typically raise two to eight blues per day during the height of the season. On either side of the December-through-January peak, you can still count on seeing two fish per outing. The average size of released blues ? hovering around 400 pounds ? stands out as this fishery's most attractive statistic. Despite frequent releases of 500- to 800-pounders and occasional sightings of monstrous blues, the big one had eluded capture since Artmarina inaugurated its Brazilian venture in 1998. On March 6 of this year, Elvis finally answered when Anderson went a-calling with first-time marlin fisherman Anthony Mathews in the chair. Mathews battled the fish to boat-side after an hour and a quarter, and Anderson knew it was worth a trip to the weigh station. Certified scales tallied 1,014 pounds, and Artmarina Brazil celebrated its first grander. Proving that the big fish was no fluke, Anderson weighed another huge blue, a 937-pounder that died after getting tail-wrapped, on April 11.
Anderson organized a tournament in November 2001 that attracted more than 20 boats, some coming from hundreds of miles away, and set the whole town abuzz with a kickoff barbecue and Miss Marlin beauty contest. Despite a nasty cold front that put a damper on the fishing, huge crowds turned out for weigh-ins each evening to give the event a county-fair atmosphere. Plan your trip to coincide with this year's tourney (November 14-16, 2002) for a truly memorable experience.
Vitória
Continuing south to the state of Espírito Santo, Vitória becomes the next stop for blue-water anglers. Despite a population of 1 million, this charming city resembles a smaller, cozier, quieter version of Rio, with beaches, night life, a wide selection of three- to five-star hotels and restaurants to please any palate.
A short connecting flight from Rio de Janeiro or São Paulo, Vitória proudly declares itself ''Marlin Capital of the World.'' Hotel entrances display jumping marlin logos, and several restaurants are decorated with photos of successful fishermen, large varnished marlin bills and other angling memorabilia. An enviable number of entries in the International Game Fish Association's book of world records backs up the city's claim to fame. Along with seven line-class records for white marlin, this destination's honor roll includes all-tackle marks for white marlin (181 pounds, set in 1979) and blue marlin (1,402 pounds, set in 1992). Anglers visiting the Iate Clube de Espírito Santo can't help but notice the imposing replica of Paulo Amorim's tremendous record blue, looming overhead as a reminder of the weighty possibilities patrolling nearby waters.
If you're looking for a sure bet, spend a few December days in Vitória pursuing white marlin; you're likely to raise five to 12 fish per outing. Boats in search of white marlin usually put lines in 18 miles offshore, a couple of miles inside the shelf, and may end up trolling as far as 25 miles out. The season usually begins in late September, but the thickest part of the run kicks in around mid-November and continues until the end of December. Though becoming harder to find each year, whites to 100 pounds or more usually show up early in the season. After celebrating a white Christmas, Vitória prepares for the New Year's blues. January through March ranks as prime time for finding blue marlin from 400 to over 1,000 pounds.
Capt. Luiz Guilherme Queiroz runs Dolphin Pesca, the only charter business in town. His extensive knowledge proved essential in helping Charlie Tombras notch a 20-pound-tippet fly-rod record for white marlin (set in 1996 and since broken). Queiroz loves bait-and-switch tactics, though his largely Brazilian clientele usually prefers trolling a spread of naked ballyhoo for whites. Queiroz pulls out the 80- and 130-pound tackle to troll lures when setting his sights on blues.
Capixabas, as residents of Espírito Santo are called, stand to reap fringe benefits from Brazil's burgeoning offshore oil industry. Queiroz can't hide his excitement about the construction of four drilling platforms 40 miles off Vitória. By the time next season gets underway, these structures should hold wahoo, yellowfin and marlin.
While fishing with Queiroz last December, I discovered that he has added another facet to his top-quality charter service. Rather than simply leaning over the gunwale to bill, unhook and release white marlin, mate Bruno Haje loves to hop overboard and lead fish by the bill for a few minutes before letting them go. And he invites anglers to don a mask and join him in the water. It wouldn't quite compare with dropping in on free-swimming fish, but I found the experience exhilarating as I snorkeled beside Haje while he carefully escorted a tired white away from the boat. After descending about 10 feet with the marlin in tow, Haje opened his gloved hand and the fish paddled off strongly.
Guarapari
Can you say that name three times in a row without bruising your tongue? Few Americans pronounce it correctly (hint: roll the r's and accent the last syllable), but that's not why you haven't yet heard about this beachside vacation town. Vitória, just 30 miles to the north, overshadows its neighbor in both size and reputation.
Angelo Coutinho, a local businessman and marlin fanatic who has been fishing out of Guarapari for more than 20 years, says it's not worth his effort to fish anywhere else. The nearest marlin grounds lie about 32 miles offshore, though Coutinho frequently makes the 45-mile trip on a southerly bearing to reach a hot spot named Quebra Linha (Line Breaker), so called because of all the huge fish hooked and lost there. Though relatively shallow (around 60 fathoms), Quebra Linha offers quality fishing, thanks to a magic mix of bottom structure and currents.
Only four or five boats belonging to weekend anglers work the waters near Guarapari. Though within striking distance, most crews based in Vitória prefer not to make the 70-mile run to Quebra Linha because the ride home usually finds them taking strong head seas and northeast winds on the chin. The town has no marina facilities; boats stay moored to private docks at homes along the canal.
The area offers spectacular white marlin fishing along with sails, but Coutinho concentrates on big blues. He hooked a veritable leviathan at Quebra Linha early last January. ''The fish hardly fought. We thought it was a small one until it surfaced near the transom,'' he says. Just 10 minutes into the fight, the mates sank one flying gaff in the fish's broad back and another near its tail. ''The marlin never thrashed wildly. It just powered straight down, slowly and strongly. Both gaffs ripped out of the fish, and it broke the line,'' Coutinho says. ''I'd never seen such a huge marlin. It had to weigh around 1,600 pounds.''
The man speaks from years of big-fish experience, and for the sake of comparison, he caught a 1,113-pounder and a ''small'' 630-pounder the following week. Coutinho says the fish he lost was much longer and thicker than his grander.
Cabo Frio
Faithful readers have seen news about Cabo Frio crop up in Marlin magazine like a recurring dream because of this fishery's uncanny aptitude for producing granders in an annual tournament. Indeed, if catching a 1,000-plus-pound Atlantic blue marlin ranks as a lifetime goal, you'd do well to pursue that hefty Holy Grail in this sleepy-fishing-village-turned-bustling-vacation-town. You'll have to want it badly enough to work hard for it, though. The no-pain-no-gain adage rings true in Cabo Frio. Frequently rough seas keep many casual recreational anglers from braving the 60-mile run to the fishing grounds at the edge of the shelf.
While anglers have been catching sails, whites and blues off Cabo Frio for decades, the region's development into a big-fish destination traces back only a few years. The Iate Clube do Rio de Janeiro maintains a marina in Cabo Frio, which serves as home base for the club's annual Cabo Frio blue marlin tournament. The inaugural event, held in February 1994, produced a winning fish of 530 pounds. But as years went by and local teams pinpointed the most productive spots, many larger fish began hitting the dock. So many and so much larger that the tournament's modified-release format established a minimum weight of 440 pounds (and that may be raised to 550 this year).
In February 1997, Cabo Frio's first grander tipped the scales at 1,062 pounds and opened the floodgates that generate a grander nearly every year (five in the past six seasons). Considering that sport-fishing pressure remains practically insignificant ? few boats ply these waters outside of a couple of weekend tournaments per year ? one can only speculate at the fishery's true potential.
Anglers may soon have a skipper of international repute to book for Cabo Frio charters. Capt. Jo Franck spent the last two weeks of January 2002 here, during which he witnessed the weighing of three impressive blues (910, 930 and 1,183 pounds) plus some ''small'' fish from 400 to 700 pounds. Convinced that this is the place to spend the off-season from his operation in the Azores, Franck expects to begin booking charters for Cabo Frio's 2002-03 season.
Rio de Janeirao
My adoptive hometown, this city of 11 million people provides quality billfishing and deserves more publicity. Rio offers cosmopolitan flair at affordable prices, especially with the favorable exchange rates now in vigor. Tourists find fine dining and luxury hotels against a backdrop of mountains edging the sea in a Manhattan-meets-Hawaii scenario. World-famous beaches such as Ipanema and Copacabana beckon, but I must warn our predominantly masculine readership of Rio's harsh reality. You'll see few if any women going topless. Whiplash and eye strain still represent health hazards because of the tremendous numbers of healthy young women wearing miniscule bikinis, but while enjoying these sights you must deal with the downside of South American beach fashion: All the men wear Speedos!
Rio once touted an incredible fishery for Atlantic sails. Up until the mid-1990s, boats fishing out of the Iate Clube do Rio de Janeiro often raised 20 or more sailfish per day during the November/December peak. This year, however, crews had a tough time finding a handful of sails on a good day and were quick to blame the commercial sector for decimating populations. Local longliners that in former years concentrated on dorado have switched to live-baiting their setlines to target sailfish, killing hundreds per trip. In addition to recent commercial fishing pressure, one has to wonder about the impact of decades of club tournaments in which hundreds upon hundreds of sails were boated per year.
Blue marlin have always turned up in these parts (including a 930-pounder caught in 1993), but now it seems local anglers have begun to pursue them in earnest. An early-season run of fish in the 300-pound range usually passes through in October, and larger fish typically begin to show in January. Boats making the 60-mile run to the drop-off stand good chances of raising blues. For instance, the Isabel fishing out of the Iate Clube on February 23, 2001, raised a doubleheader of sails and released two blue marlin estimated at 300 and 400 pounds. The following Saturday I accompanied friends on Old Lady and witnessed the release of a 375- and a 450-pounder while the crew of the Isabel wired a blue pushing 700.
White marlin round out billfish possibilities off Rio, with sporadic catches reported throughout the season. A brigade of sizable whites usually sweeps past during a two-week window in late October or early November. The fish don't appear in great numbers, but individuals often exceed 100 pounds.
